I have now driven more than 300km with the conversion and charged the battery pack nine times from about 1/3rd left. Everything seems to work real smooth. So I decided to check the cell voltages for any oddities, as I am relying only on bottom-balancing and there is no battery management system (BMS) used in my bike. As I went through them, every single cell of the 25 cells reported values within 0.01V from each other after driving to work and using almost 30Ah of energy. All the cells had values of 3.27-3.28V using the meter that gives a bit higher numbers than the other one I’ve used. So I’d say the pack is still in excellent balance, and there shouldn’t be no bad cells in the pack. I’d say I am now very confident with the bottom-balancing method. Also while opening the battery boxes for the inspection I added some extra insulation in the bottom pack, to make sure that the cells won’t bounce around and that the poles will have zero chance of hitting the bottom of the top box, which could potentially short circuit them.
Everything else went just fine, but as I worked in a rush, I managed to drop the DC-DC converter (stupid me) as I had to disconnect it so that I could get the upper battery box lifted. And I forgot to check it’s operation after the work was done. This morning I tested the 12V voltage and it looks like that I’ve either broken the DC-DC or disconnected some wire (also a very likely scenario) when I put the bike back together. The small lead-gel battery reads only 12.2 volts and the voltages do not jump back up to 13.5V as they used to do when the DC-DC worked and the bike was turned on. I’ll need to debug it this evening… Sigh.
EDIT (23pm): Just a disconnected wire. Failed crimping. Fixed…
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